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[Delivered on 1/20/04, at 8:30pm in front of the
Dupont Circle fountain. Amor populi Præsidium Reg!]
In the dawn of Washington's history, Pierre l'Enfant
drew up his plan for the capital city, including 15
public spaces where roads intersected. In the late
19th century, many of those spaces were forged into
circles. At Vermont and Rhode Island, Logan Circle was
made. At Pennsylvania and New Hampshire, Washington
Circle was made. At Massachusetts and Nebraska, Ward
Circle was made, and elsewhere Grant Circle and
Sherman Circle and Thomas Circle and Scott Circle. But
at the marshes around Slash Run, where Massachusetts
met with Connecticut, New Hampshire, 19th and P, they
made one circle to rule them all: Dupont Circle, the
One Circle.
Tonight I'd like to reflect on the state of the
circle; to simply list the comings and goings, and to
take a moment to discuss goals for the future.
Looking north, along Connecticut Avenue, I see several
newcomers: Benetton and Sisley opened in the old Janus
cinema. Russia House Lounge opened in March, in a
grand building once used as a private restaurant and
club. The Video Rack opened below the Leather Rack.
And Irvine Contemporary Art opened in a space now
shared with Troyer Gallery. Two new restaurants will
open soon: Sette and Mourayo. But there are ghosts on
this avenue as well. Fuzio closed. Cafe Midi closed.
Kemp Mill Music closed. Burrito Brothers closed. Are
we no longer the city's burrito capital? Are we no
longer the place to browse for music?
There is one other ghost, Viareggio's. It opened in
1999 after the previous tenant, gourmet grocer Market
Day, folded. Food plays a special role in society, and
food stores are a vital piece of the neighborhood
puzzle. Small neighborhood grocers have struggled
since the invention of refrigeration, but one still
hopes against hope for their return. -And for the
return of specialty stores - a boulangerie for bread,
fromagerie for cheese, pâtisserie for pastries, a
butchers, and a produce market. We are lucky to still
have Firehook, Marvelous Market, and the Sunday
farmers market. Whole Foods Market demonstrated that a
quality food source can feed demand for nearby
housing; we hope to see more grocers enter the region.
Harris Teeter seems close to opening their first DC
store at 17th & Kalorama, and Trader Joe's is being
recruited for Foggy Bottom. A new Giant is expected in
Columbia Heights, and a new Whole Foods might open
there too.
Let's turn west to P St. This little stretch is our
most distinct entry, with a bridge connecting us to
Georgetown. It passes over Rock Creek Park, but
doesn't easily connect to it. For cyclists, joggers
and walkers it would be nice to create a better
entrance to the city's best parkland.
The city announced intentions almost two years ago
to design a better streetscape for P Street. Though a
half-million dollars was budgeted for this, the
project seems to have been forgotten, with no plans
released, no accounting of the money spent, and no
improvements in sight. It is good to see the bridge
being repaired, but let's also spruce up the short
distance between the bridge and the circle.
One wonders what's to come of Dupont's oldest gay
bar, Mr P's, now apparently shuttered. Two new
arrivals on P St demonstrate alternate visions of our
future. One, Quiznos, is a national chain which tries
to saturate neighborhoods with homogenous stores; the
other, Italian art gallery Capricorno, shows off
Dupont as a special place, and strengthens our
reputation as the heart of DC's art gallery network.
At 20th and Q, there's a new little retail shop which
we can all be proud of. Tabletop opened in Miss
Pixie's old home (who will be missed), selling
accessories and whatnot with an eye for good design.
To our south, in the former Benetton spot, one sees
construction of a different kind of chain - one that
folks not only welcome, but beg for: this is the site
of the city's first Krispy Kreme. For balance, that
block of Connecticut also saw a new independent shop
open, the import-trinket shop Himalaya House.
Other noteworthy changes to our south are the new
David Greggory restaurant at 22nd and M, and seafood
restaurant Fin, which replaced Georgetown Seafood
Grill at 19th and Jefferson. Staples took over the
19th & L space from Office Depot, which then opened a
new store at 20th & K. Retailer City Sports opened on
19th St between L and M. Underground restaurant Agua
Ardiente opened at 24th & M.
Other little changes are scattered here and there.
Visions rechristened its lounge as Bar Noir, painting
over its fun mural with red and black. The Jurys hotel
brought its 19th Street side to stunning life with the
addition of Dupont Grille. Another stylish design was
unveiled when Health Bar opened, tucked next to
Results. BP Amaco opened at 18th and S.
A few changes stand out as especially noteworthy. The
Heurich Mansion was finally sold, with the winning bid
going to Heurich's own descendants, who then turned
the property back into a historic house open to the
public. The Phillips Collection started construction
of their expansion. The Human Rights Campaign opened
their new headquarters building at 17th & Rhode Island
Avenue. The Golden Triangle BID orchestrated the
installation of several countdown pedestrian signals.
Throughout Dupont, the city rebuilt select alleys
using attractive pavers.
And underground, control of the former Dupont trolley
station changed hands when the U.S. Court of Appeals
held that the Dupont Down Under sub-lease holder now
had the rights for the entire property. But there are
still no plans for development. It is a difficult
space, with no easy solutions. Would a gym work? A
pool hall? Can someone run a haunted house there next
Halloween? And what of the boarded-up trolley
entrances? Whatever happens to the space below, it is
doubtful all nine entrances will be used. It would be
a shame to lose the footprints of the old entrances;
rather than destroying them or keeping them fallow, I
would love to see kiosks constructed over them. These
small street-level spaces could add to our retail
scene, with vendors selling flowers, magazines,
gelato, coffee, crafts, produce, pastries, etc etc.
Turning our gaze to the east, let's review the changes
on 17th St. Last March, Housewares opened next door to
the TrueValue store. Restaurant Komi got off to a
flying start in the old Vivo space. Caldwell Banker
opened a branch, and Subway added another bastion.
The strip with the most activity was once again 14th
Street. Three businesses moved east to new homes on or
near 14th Street: Wagtime went from 18th Street to
14th & Q, Blink went from 17th Street to P Street, and
Reincarnations went from 17th Street to a spectacular
new home at 14th & Rhode Island Avenue. Reincarnations
demonstrates that the best thing that can happen to a
streetscape is to get a store that cares about its
window displays.
The heart of 14th Street's amazing renaissance is on
the eastern half of the block between S and T. Pulp
opened their permanent home, with a changing window
display that never fails to amuse and invite. Even El
Paraiso Market, just next door, improved its facade.
Upstairs, sleek clothing shop Pop opened up. Side-by-
side furniture stores Muléh and Vastu opened, looking
fun and stylish. And on the corner of 14th & T, Cafe
Saint-Ex became on overnight success, while managing
to feel like it's always been there. It would be nice
if The Black Cat could catch the wave, and open up its
empty facade.
Other highlights were the opening of beautiful Thai
restaurant Rice, and the opening of Timothy Paul
Carpets and Textiles, with its glowing storefront. On
P Street, Logan Hardware brought a welcome service,
and across the street several businesses opened in The
Hudson, most notably cozy Logan Tavern, alongside
Starbucks, TCBY and Washington Mutual. Next door, The
New Vegas Lounge completed a renovation.
Studio Theatre began a major expansion program. Arena
Stage at 14th & T came back to life, hosting several
productions. Source Theatre became perhaps the busiest
stage in town, hosting Source's own production company
plus several others, including Cherry Red. As you
know, I've been working with Cherry Red for several
seasons, designing props. I've been a fan of theirs
ever since seeing wacky shows like "Cannibal
Cheerleaders on Crack" and "Zombie Attack," and was
saddened to learn this will be their last full season,
keeping in mind that the company will still mount
productions from time to time.
Behind the 7-11 at 14th and Rhode Island, Metro Cafe
will be reborn as Box Life, including a small
performance space on the second floor. I fondly recall
the last time I went in Metro Cafe's old home with
Cherry Red's cast of regulars, gazing at the ceiling,
reminiscing over the all the blood and other stuff
that accumulated there from old performances.
Next door to Studio, the old Sign of the Lamb building
will soon open with a collection of art galleries,
including G Fine Art.
We have the makings of a true arts district here,
with a range of galleries, theatres, and unique shops.
14th and Church streets is at the center of a cluster
of quality residential projects. It boggles the mind
to compare 2 years ago to 2 years hence. Rainbow
Lofts, Cooper-Lewis, Phaeton on 14th, 1441 Rhode
Island Avenue, Lofts 14 I & II, The Metro, The DeSoto,
Andover House, and more...
And even 13th Street is seeing major new housing
projects, including The Rutherford, 1225 Lofts,
Sovereign Circle, The Icon, and The Jefferson.
This year will see the opening of the most beautiful
housing project of them all: The Ellington, at 13th
and U. We're lucky to get such an important building
right across from the Metro station. The same can't be
said of the new building on top of the station. With
dark tinted windows hiding its presumably-ugly
contents, and a near-total lack of decoration on the
street corner, this building is a flat disappointment.
Across the street, the Lincoln Theatre added a
nostalgic blue argon sign to the exterior; now if only
their neighbor Ben's Chili Bowl could replace the
dozens of burnt-out yellow light bulbs in their sign.
Nearby on U, Republic Gardens reopened. The 1500 block
of U Street gained two cute little retail shops on the
south side, Nana and Junction, and Nevin Kelly Gallery
on the north. Love Cafe brought sweet life to the
corner of 15th and U.
Adams Morgan lost unique retailers Tara's Gallery and
music shop DCCD, as well as the automated convenience
store Redbox.
But Adams Morgan finally got the punk/goth shop
it deserved when Stark Raving Mad opened on 18th
Street.
Several new restaurants opened, with my favorites
being Mantis, Bulgarian Cafe Sofia, and L'Enfant,
which finally perfected that little corner at 18th &
Vernon. Sushi lounge Saki, Pacific Sushi, fast-food
Peking Garden, Maggie Moo's, and Starbucks also came
to Adams Morgan.
The most notable new arrivals in Georgetown were
world-class soapy showcase Lush and much-heralded
clothing shops H&M and Zara. Over-the-top and
overpriced restaurant Mie N Yu also opened.
Rose Park played host to a farmers market for the
first time. Plans for the Georgetown Waterfront
progressed, slowly.
H&M also made big news downtown, where it opened in
the old Woodies building. Nearby saw more retail, as
mens fashion retailer Jos. A Bank and Chapters
bookstore opened. A new magnet for downtown just
opened, the E Street Cinema, with 8 screens. An
upscale lingerie store is expected at 11th and Penn.
More good news is on the horizon: Woolly Mammoth
will open its new home on 7th Street this year, and
the Shakespeare Theatre is close to building a stage
at 6th & F. A massive project will open at 7th & H
this year, bringing 14 movie screens, and Jillian's,
which will include bowling lanes and other arcade
amusements.
Other notable changes throughout the city include
the restoration of the Avalon Theatre; the city's
first Five Guys burger joint, on Georgia Ave; and
the long-awaited first tenant for the old Tenleytown
Sears, a Best Buy. Meanwhile, local chain Britches
tanked, and Mt Pleasant lost The People Garden,
their organic deli/grocery. Rosslyn got a surprsingly
hip pool hall when Continental opened, flashing retro
style and even giant tiki heads. Outside the beltway,
IKEA opened a store in College Park.
Opportunities for this city to continue its momentum
are growing. Plans for the wax museum site at 5th and
K are still not yet final, and the old convention
center offers another golden opportunity. NoMa has
already come to life, with the first new residents
moving into the amazing new cluster of towers. A
major effort is being made to improve the waterfront
along the Anacostia.
People often ask why I mention developments in
Rockville, Crystal City, and Mordor - I mean, Tysons
Corner. These developments affect us. When Crystal
City turns its buildings inside out and chooses a
pedestrian-orientated design with streetscapes that
are permeable and lively, we need to take notice.
Nearby developments bolster our entire community, but
they also serve as competition. DC is a very small
island, and we have only so many advantages over
Maryland and Virginia, and a number of well-publicized
liabilities. People vote with their feet, and we're
only now beginning to see a reversal of the mass
exodus of thousands of people over the last few
decades, fleeing the high crime, high taxes, poor
services and poor schools.
So much of what we have, we have by accident - our
wonderful stock of historic houses, our friendly mix
of retail, from bookstores to music to clothes to
knickknacks, and from mom-and-pops to trendy national
retailers. Well, if not by accident, there are so
many factors in our wonderful neighborhood that it's
difficult to pin down any one reason. We have vigilant
neighborhood groups... we are the heart of the gay
community... we have collegiate outposts, and are
in the middle of DC's many universities... we are the
heart of the embassy community, and the central point
for bike couriers... We are convenient for tourists,
and offer many of the city's best restaurants. We
have one of the region's busiest Metro stops. We are
home to several cultural assets.
One consensus of the latest round of developments is
that people are sick of driving in their cars for
routine trips. Columbia Pike, the Village at
Shirlington, Silver Spring... they're trying to build
what we already have. But no community stands still,
or should. We too should be vigilant about the design
of our neighborhood.
We should continuously inspect our neighborhood for
opportunities to improve. As architect Daniel Burham
advised, "make no little plans."
Let's start our inspection right here in Dupont Circle
plaza. In the heart of this park, this lovely fountain
is the symbol of our neighborhood. Granted, it's below
freezing and there's only one other person here
[thanks, Joe!], but on a warm night this is the city's
best spot. Let's do something to enhance this
fountain. At night, those three cascades of water fall
in shadows. Let's add underwater lights to make them
sparkle. It's not hard. And adding lights to the
concrete basin does not harm the historic statue. The
most famous fountain in the world, Rome's Trevi
fountain, was given underwater lights centuries after
the fountain itself was built. Surely, sometime in the
new millennium, a light from the darkness shall
spring.
Let's beautify P St with a charming streetscape. Let's
find a good use for Dupont Down Under. Let's add bike
lanes and make biking an option for everyone.
Let's connect our neighborhood to Rock Creek Park and
the National Arboretum - let's add a bike trail
connecting these two wonderful parks, using Q Street
and R Street.
Let's take care of the little parks in our own
backyard. Let's spruce up the little triangle at 20th
& Q. Let's cover the Connecticut Avenue underpass -
just the little slice south of Q Street - and build a
new park over it.
Let's design our streets for pedestrian safety, not
for speeding automobiles. Let's look at those wide
turning radii which enable cars to turn right without
slowing down, and change them to less generous curves.
Let's bridge the two halves of Connecticut Avenue with
curb bulbs, which extend the sidewalk at intersections
to shorten the time walking in front of cars.
Let's get Metro to stop slapping on more and more
names to our stations. I like short names. People do
not use long names. The signs on the cars do not fit
more than 14 letters.
Stations should be named after the neighborhood
they serve or the major cross street, if other lines
do not also intersect it.
At the very least Metro needs to decide if it wants
to separate names with a dash or slash, and not pick
between them randomly, sometimes in the same name, as
in "Woodley Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan."
It is helpful to know which attractions are served
by which stations. This should be accomplished by
having a 2nd-tier name used in large maps, or in a
directory. College students who do not know which
station to use without seeing their college's name
embedded in the station name should not be going to
college; stop adding college names just because
there's a school within 7 blocks (unless the station
lies within the campus). And if a college is going to
get added to the name, let it pay handsomely for the
privilege.
In the past few years Metro has slapped on new
names for Vienna, Dunn Loring, West Falls Church,
Ballston, Grosvenor, Woodley Park, U Street,
Waterfront, Mt Vernon Sq, and, the only name change
Metro resisted (and fought tooth and nail against),
National Airport.
Let's improve the aesthetics and usefulness of the
system, and rethink naming procedures. Let's bring
clarity and simplicity to the stations' names.
Where was I?
Let's break out the shovels, and dig that tiny-but-
handy tunnel between Farragut West and Farragut North.
Let's give Adams Morgan a true Metro station by
bringing the yellow line under U Street, with a
station entry under the Marie Reed tennis courts.
Let's fight light pollution by finding a matching
lamppost for our classic Washington Globes, but which
points downwards.
Let's ensure that the next time sidewalks are rebuilt,
we use bricks or pebble aggregate, which is so much
prettier than flat concrete.
Let's add flowers to the streetscape.
Behind me, Daniel Chester French included three
allegorical figures in his sculpture - the two ladies
representing the sea and the stars, and a muscular
male representing the wind. These are the means by
which sailors navigated their ships. Our task is a
distant dreamlike cousin of the challenge faced by
the 19th-century admiral memorialized by this
fountain, Samuel F. DuPont, but hey, we need all the
help we can get. And if the sea, the stars and the
wind can help, then let's go for it, as our fleet of
ideas sets off in all directions, in seas ravaged by
Hurricane Isabel and with a map where the names go on
and on and on.
As rising housing prices attest, everyone wants to
live near the One Circle; its power is clearly
growing. We are all members of the fellowship of the
circle. It is our precious circle.
Farewell, and may the blessing of Elves and Men and
all free folk go with you. May the stars shine upon
your faces! |