|
1/28/03:
Tonight I'll reflect on the changes to our
neighborhood over the past year. For the most part, I
am recording passages of commercial projects. The
fabric of Dupont - the history, the greenery, the
architecture, the social milieu are thankfully stable.
We are blessed with a rich combination of elements
which set the stage for the delight of the flâneur.
This 19th-century French term describes someone who
wanders the streets without the intent of getting
somewhere, but rather as an observer and philosopher.
Though we are far from the City of Light, our streets
have many rewards for DC's flâneurs.
With every new project, I wonder if it adds to
these rewards. Does it add to the neighborhood's
beauty? Does it add to our bustle? Will it somehow
make life more interesting?
The real estate market certainly didn't lack
activity. It seems the only property without a bidder
was the Heurich House, which still waits for a worthy
suitor.
The big news for residential projects took place
mostly along 14th St, where several projects were
announced, spurred no doubt by the proximity to
Fresh Fields, itself just two years old.
But just to our north, the Roosevelt returned to
life as luxury apartments, ending years of neglect.
Our hotels play special roles in the neighborhood.
While serving as ideal buffers between offices and
homes, they bring new faces everyday onto our streets.
A few hotels underwent major transformations. The
Kimpton Group left its hip imprint on Hotel Helix,
which replaced the dingy Howard Johnson's, and Hotel
Madera, which replaced the Clarion Hampshire House
Hotel. On Rhode Island Ave, the Washington Terrace
Hotel took the place of the Doubletree. One block
west, the Governor's House hotel is planning their
upcoming expansion.
The University of California opened their 11-story
Washington Center at 1608 Rhode Island Avenue, with
classrooms, an auditorium and 290 residences.
One block west, construction has finally begun on
the long-vacant rowhouses next to St Matthew's.
Connecticut Avenue, south of the circle, is our
gateway to downtown. It became home to sleek Internet
cafe Ben'N Mo, and large club Acropolis. I've never
gone inside, but the part by the entrance has those
hideous ceiling tiles. I've heard the interior is
fairly glam. Nearby, the Hathaway Shirt Co replaced
Nickleby's card shop. And The Grooming Lounge opened
to much acclaim as a spa for men.
The southern stretch of New Hampshire Avenue saw
Firefly open up in the new Madera and become an
instant hit. Further south, the chic Circle Bistro
opened in One Washington Circle Hotel. Savino's
opened a new lounge just off the circle, and offers an
extravagantly bizarre drink dusted with actual 24-
karat gold dust. I'll never order it, but I like
knowing it's available, and that anyone thirsting for
gold will have to come to Dupont.
The busy stretch of 19th St between L and O saw a
Melting Pot fondue restaurant and Potbelly Sandwiches
open. Toka Cafe and Penang Malaysian Cuisine also
opened.
The city began plans to beautify the 2-block
stretch of P St that connects us to Georgetown. Like
the upcoming renovation of the P St Bridge, the city
has said they will replace our sidewalks with tinted
concrete stamped in brick patterns. I wish to repeat
that stamped-concrete is the wood-grain paneling of
the new millennium. It is incompatible with our
historic streetscape. Many of our original sidewalks
have already been replaced with smooth concrete,
leaving few examples of what we once were blessed
with, but there are still patches that have the
concrete with exposed pebbles. This texture is
preferred. If we can recognize that this concrete
aggregate is a vital part of Meridian Hill Park,
can't we do the same for the sidewalks of Dupont?
Till recently, 16th St's sidewalks also displayed this
beautiful material. I am grateful that for the side
streets around P St the city put in actual bricks.
Bricks would also be a welcome alternative for P St.
P St's retail scene saw DJ Hut take over the old
12" Dance store, and Rhythm + Culture Music store
opened at 2130-B. The old Backstage space at 21st
Street was remodeled into a surprisingly bland
Starbucks which adds little to this important corner.
18th St welcomed our first vegan bakery, Sticky
Fingers. It was a relief to find that the new shop
"Doggie Style" is a pet grooming business. Grille 88
brought us a piano bar in the old Nineteen-Ten space,
and Wazuri brought African cuisine to the space still
best known as Straits of Malaya.
Bookstores are like magnets for flâneurs, so it was
sad to lose Mystery Books along the northern stretch
of Connecticut Avenue. Movie theatres are also special
places, and as much as we hated the awkward space of
the Loews Cineplex Janus 3, it too will be missed.
Flâneurs also like to find cozy places for a cheap
bite to eat; our home-grown The Burro was
unfortunately replaced with a Comfort One shoe store,
which is fairly ugly and has a stupid name. But with
The Well-Dressed Burrito, Wrap Works, Baja Fresh, two
Burrito Brothers, and two Chipoltes, Dupont is still
the burrito capitol of Washington, DC. A second Subway
sandwich shop will open in the former Georgetown
Opticians space. Peter's Passion flamed out after less
than a year. But the big news is that the forever-
vacant old Newsroom space at S St will soon open its
doors as a 24-hour American bistro, with, we're told,
a Brazilian twist.
On 17th St, accessory & gift shop Infuzion replaced
Treasures.
On U St, after much speculation, the remainder of
the old Julio's space made way for Local 16, going
from hapless to happening. One block east, Cakelove
opened its attractive shop of tempting treats, and
Wild Woman Wear Red gave us a fashionable shoe store.
Some of Dupont's best shopping continues to be
outdoors, every Sunday at the Freshfarm Market behind
Riggs. This is the first winter that the market has
stayed open year-round.
With its clusters of bike couriers in the Dupont
park, and the many bicyclists who share our streets,
a most welcome addition to Dupont were the bike lanes
added to New Hampshire. This is a big signal that
biking is an available option for everybody. A short
stretch of R St was given a bike lane between Florida
and New Jersey Avenues, and it is expected to continue
westwards into Dupont as the street gets repaved.
But R St is only half of an east-west route. For
travelers headed east, we wait for Q St to get a
companion lane. The Q and R Street paths are ideal
linkages for two great natural resources in the city:
Rock Creek Park to the west, and the National
Arboretum to the east. Let's make it easy for people
to bike to both places. The city should make this
connecting route a priority.
Dupont also needs a route for traveling north and
south. The streets on either side of 16th Street are
good candidates. 17th St could easily accommodate a
bike lane with no change to existing patterns. 15th
St is currently a dangerous road, with four narrow
lanes all traveling northbound. Sharing a lane with
cars here is a harrowing experience. In order to let
cyclists safely share this road, we need to restripe
it with 3 car lanes and 1 bike lane. Once 15th Street
passes Florida Avenue, it provides only one car lane;
thus, surely we do not need to feed it with four south
of Florida.
It was heartening to see Metro adding bike racks to
its busses. Soon new fareboxes will accept SmarTrip
cards.
And thanks to the Golden Triangle BID, which added
dozens of handsome bollards south of the circle for
locking bikes to.
Dupont's streetscape was given a rich addition when
a statue memorializing T.G. Masaryk was erected on
Massachusetts Avenue. T.G. was Czechoslovakia's first
president.
Nearby, The Phillips collection reached an
agreement for its expansion, which will begin later
this year.
The West End awaits news of the Columbia Hospital
for Women. The hospital closed this year, and the new
owner wants to create a town center of shops on the
block. In Foggy Bottom, the new GW hospital opened,
with no solid plans for the old hospital across the
street, other than a wish for mixed-use development.
Dupont benefits from the good news happening in our
neighboring neighborhoods. As much as we love Le
Marais, we love knowing that when in Paris we can also
stroll to The Left Bank, Montmarte, or the Latin
Quarter. Wards and ANCs are, God knows, no substitute
for arrondissements and quartiers, but DC still offers
sponge-worthy neighborhoods with identifiable
characteristics.
Dupont's little sister, Logan Circle, is growing up
fast. Of course we worry about the whores and hoodlums
she hangs out with, but hope that with age will come
better judgment.
14th Street continued its revitalization. Neighbors
welcomed compact nursery The Garden District, which
opened by S St. New dining options include Thai Tanic,
as well as a Subway franchise, and the long-
anticipated Caribou Coffee finally opened in August.
Two gyms opened up: One World Fitness south of S St,
and BodySmith north of Corcoran St. Petite art gallery
Transformer opened in the old Ozone space on P St.
Maison 14 opened up with a stunning glass frontage,
showing off their glitzy wares. More furniture stores
are coming, and will turn 14th St into a hub for the
region: Muléh will bring cross-cultural pieces from
Indonesia and beyond into their home in the old Black
Cat space, and Reincarnations will transform the NE
corner of Rhode Island Ave. Pulp Preview opened in a
temporary space, and will soon open their custom-built
shop north of S St. And more is on its way. Logan
Hardware will soon open up on P St. Cafe Saint-Ex will
open up at the corner of T St. Dawn Price Home is
expected in the site of Logan Cleaners. Next door,
Timothy Paul Carpets and Textiles will replace Aurora
Wholesale. After running "Bat Boy: The Musical" in the
unadorned space left by Ace Electric, Studio Theatre
is preparing for its major expansion. The Living Stage
venue was renamed Arena Stage at 14th & T, and is now
home to the Washington Stage Guild. With 14th & U
participating in the Main Street program, even more
good changes are expected.
Plans were announced to rebuild Thomas Circle,
removing the center lanes of traffic going through the
circle, making the center park larger.
U Street saw three nightclubs close: Kaffa House,
Republic Gardens, and State of the Union. A welcome
addition was the Temperance Row Farmer's & Artist's
Market, on Wednesdays at 13th & U. At the northwest
corner, ground was finally broken for Ellington Plaza,
a classy residential project which will literally
raise the neighborhood's profile.
Adams Morgan made headlines when the Tik Tok Box
debuted, giving the U.S. a first look at this
automated convenience store. The first phase of a
long-debated project opened as The Lofts at Adams
Morgan brought 62 loft-style condos and 350 parking
slots. There was a flurry of comings and goings for
the restaurant scene: The Reef replaced the Star of
Siam, Soussi replaced Pearl, and Bossa replaced the
Red Sea. Tom Tom finally reopened. And though the
garish Cluck U franchise closed, we still have a
fried-chicken shop with a double-entendre name since
L'il Peckers opened up on Columbia Road. Idle Time
Books moved a bit north on 18th Street. Adams Morgan
has much to amuse flâneurs, even if they aren't
looking for little peckers. One wishes that its
notoriously narrow sidewalks could be extended to make
walking more pleasant.
Georgetown proved again that it is the mother ship
of high-end retail. Stores that one might expect to
find in Tyson's Wretched Corner discovered the charms
of Washington's oldest neighborhood. The abandoned
incinerator site found new life as a Ritz-Carlton,
with condos and a new Loews megaplex, which you have
got to see to believe. Like Dupont, Georgetown lost
both a bookstore and a cramped cinema, with The
Foundry closing in March, and Olsson's shutting down
in June. The public got its first look at Cady's
Alley, an alley south of M Street remade into a
pedestrian zone lined with glamourous shops. Dupont's
own Pizza Paradiso opened a second restaurant in
Georgetown.
The undeveloped riverfront site at 30th & K will
be developed, housing the Swedish Embassy, plus
offices & residential space.
Downtown continued to add new office space, and
even more residential projects. The largest of them
is The Meridian at 450 Massachusetts Avenue, with 462
apartments, and The Jefferson at 7th & E, with 425
apartments. Massachusetts Court at 3rd & Mass will
have 372 apartments, Sovereign Square at 555 Mass Ave
246 apartments, and The Avalon at 770 5th St is now
finding tenants for its 203 apartments.
These new apartments will help transform downtown
from a ghost town into a true neighborhood. Another
sign of life is that the historic Tariff Building
finally reopened as the home for the Hotel Monaco. The
Turner Memorial AME Church in Chinatown will be
returned to its original use as a synagogue. And the
old Woodies building will soon become home to a
flagship store for hip retailer H&M, which will also
open a store in Georgetown.
The opening of Home Depot in Northeast proved that
DC is big enough to make room for suburban-style big-
box retailers, though we wish an urban design could
have been found for it rather than the sea of asphalt.
After over thirty years of being strangled by
highways, The Kennedy Center announced plans for a
major expansion, with an eye on welcoming pedestrians
and cyclists.
After having its streets laid out by a Frenchman,
Washington grew in an ad-hoc manner, but luckily
filling most of its neighborhoods before mass
production replaced skilled craftsmen. Some of the
best neighborhood components are accidents of birth it
seems. But popular sentiment has caught up to the 19th
century, with developers mimicking ye olde town
squares in new projects.
This past year, Ballston announced plans for a
"downtown look," with a $200 million mixed-use
development.
Even Tysons is slated for a massive residential
project.
McLean's leaders created plans for a new Main
Street.
Next to P.G. Plaza Metro, a town center
development was announced.
And sometimes the best projects start small.
Run-down downtown Hyattsville opened up what might
be the region's best brew pub, Franklin's. This fun
spot is sure to encourage more development.
Mount Rainier decided to actively turn around their
town, starting with traffic and pedestrian safety
improvements.
This year saw the release of a book called "The Rise
of the Creative Class: Why cities without gays and
rock bands are losing the economic development race."
It generated much discussion of what makes for a
healthy local economy. Though Dupont isn't known for
its rock bands, it does seem to have a concentration
of gays, which the author refers to as "the canaries
of the creative economy."
We take for granted that same-sex couples are
comfortable walking hand-in-hand, and problems are
rare, though not completely unheard of. Rainbow flags
on cars and homes signal our neighborhood's welcome.
And on our stages, this was a year for men in drag
to shine. Lypsinka ruled at Studio theatre for too
short a time, and Kiki & Herb shocked and amused at
Source. And currently Dame Edna is gracing National
Theatre. And last but not least, our own Lucrezia
Blozia is making her triumphant return to the stage
in Cherry Red's Coyote Woman.
Badlands transformed into Apex, while Lizard Lounge
moved from 14th St to 1223 Connecticut Avenue. DC must
be the only city where the most glamourous gay bar is
actually in a straight bar. In a welcome move, the
Green Lantern introduced smoke-free nights upstairs on
Saturdays. And Adams Morgan got a monthly event when
Feint came into Staccato. Over at 11th & U, Between
Friends recently opened.
The Dupont Circle Update started just over three years
ago. What began as a means of sharing gossip with a
few friends has now grown to a more formal obligation,
with 500 people on the mailing list. I have no idea
who most of you even are, but know that we all hope to
see our neighborhood continue to be a place of
comfort, and to continue to improve.
I am grateful for everyone who's helped, especially
someone whom I can identify only as "R.O."
One of the best news sources, the Northwest
Current, spun off a weekly edition called the Dupont
Current.
Every flâneur needs a rest. We all need a place to
call home. And when you're busy being a flâneur in
Dupont Circle, all roads lead to the park at the heart
of our neighborhood. In the center of this park is a
fountain, which is where, if it weren't so cold, I
would be giving this speech tonight, instead of the
cozy confines of my penthouse apartment on the 90th
floor of the Cairo.
Please picture this fountain, tonight at 8pm. Now
picture the Place de la Concorde at night. Or Rome's
Trevi fountain at night. Or any famous fountain at
night, including many others right here in the
capitol. What is the difference? The Dupont fountain
is not lit. There are no underwater lights. The
National Park Service, which is the custodian of this
park, will not even allow others to help light it,
citing the lack of evidence that the sculptor
"intended" for it be be lit from underwater.
This park - this fountain - is the heart of our
neighborhood. It is an important anchor of Embassy
Row and part of the face we show to the international
community. It is a valued piece of art. There are
people here at night. The fountain merits being lit.
Mr Gorbachev, light this fountain!
I hope everyone will join me in urging the Park
Service and any benefactors to add underwater lights.
Best wishes for the coming year.
Our neighborhood is special. Party on, and be
excellent to each other. |